Alvaro Mars SS2024 photos by Tuhin Chandra

Lolita takes the UK, and this time for real.

Led by the classic Spanish iconography and interpreting beauty as the
result of trained sensitivity, this collection evokes some characters
based on folklore that reclaims a nondisrupted version of pop culture.
The Spanish designer has created a capsule that questions the heavy
social connotations that pop icons carry taking the 90’s documental “The
celluloid closet” (1995) as a key reference for his message. Mars finds
his starting point of inspiration in his grandmother and realizes that
his sense of “elegance” is based on hers.

Using clichés built from his own memoirs as main transmitters, Alvaro
pays homage to Spanish culture and puts the main focus on the process of
getting dressed as in “The Impossible Wardrobe”, a performance by Tilda
Swinton. The designer notices the naturalness of admiring a piece from
the distance and brings it face to face with the difficult task of being
proud of what is owned; he finds the simile on the souvenirs from Spain,
“Looking at these objects you can see a celebration of culture from a
different perspective” Mars says.

The garments, made from different recycled materials and treated with
different techniques, bring to life six characters that crumble the
Lolita to tell this story. As for the first look, his grandmother, the
designer’s main inspirational source and the representation of elegance
based on his culture. For the second look, The “flute à champagne”, the
champagne glass, reinterprets a classic Cristobal Balenciaga shape
that elongates the body distorting it into an inverted triangle. Following
the collection, there is the “Sevillana”, the flamenco dancer; followed
by the “Torero”, the Spanish matador and favorite traditional costume
of the designer. To close this fashion story, Mars presents the
“Lolita”, inspired by icons like Audrey Hepburn or Dovima, and, for his
“Chant du cygne”, the “Montera”, the matador’s headpiece worked on a
gigantic scale.

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