Suzusan NYFW FW2018

2018 – 19 A/W Collection
– Phenomenon –
When I started creating items for this season, I often
contemplated the expressions behavior and phenomenon – the
process of working with your hands and the result of this work
that sometimes displays something exceptional and unintentional.
One source of imagination for this collection was the wooden
sculptures of En-Ku.
In 17th century, the sculptor and monk, En-Ku (1632-1695)
traveled all around Japan and created more than 120.000 wooden
Buddha sculptures, from very tall to very small. The pieces of
wood En-Ku worked on showed rough grains and distortions due
to annual rings. And these natural phenomena are essential to
the rough sculptures, they add the factor of time to the process.
You cannot explain these sculptures fully with an expression like
“primitive art”. These sculptures have an inner strength and are
filled with generosity, they talk to your soul.
In the Shibori process the fabric is treated quite forcefully. You
tighten it up, you push and crush it, pull it up and down, pinch
and press it tightly. Sheer and soft textiles change their shape
completely during the process and seem to be mere small bundles
of fabric. But they withstand these rough treatments. Something
‘happens’ to them during the time they are compressed. Only
after the dyeing process in boiling water when the compression
will be loosened will the colorful patterns appear.
Even now, I am always deeply excited the moment I can perceive
the pattern through the clouds of steam in my workshop. And I
am moved by the beauty of the patterns which occur. They are a
product of my workmanship but there is more to it. I sometimes
feel that the patterns have come from another place beyond my
A pattern created by workmanship and time might be explained
as shaped by the phenomenon of “water” since fluid material can
transform and make a shape as “solid“ with temperature. The
pattern which seems to have occurred by chance is actually born
by necessity but of the phenomenon, and reveals its true nature
in front of us.
Standing next to the boiling colored water in my dyeing
workshop filled with steam, I have been having such thoughts
while watching my old wall clock to check the correct dyeing
Hiroyuki Murase
 180 the store in Tribeca is currently hosting the Suzusan installation and the collection is available for purchase.


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